OCEAN 100 SACRAMENTOGRILO EXAM 3 QUESTIONS
AND ANSWERS
what are the parts of the coastal region? - Answers - 1. coast
2. offshore
3. beach
4. berm
5. wave-cut platform
6. notch
Coastal region - Answers - land adjacent to the beach and affected by the ocean
(marine layer)
coast - Answers - land extending inland as far as marine influence is seen
coastline - Answers - base of cliff, think of the literal line that connect the bottom of a
cliff to the sand berm
offshore - Answers - extends from breakers to edge of continental shelf
beach - Answers - shore + nearshore (area between coast & shore); very active
berm - Answers - dry area at the foot of the coastal cliff - > sand
- tsunami, high tide, storm surge (flood the berm)
wave-cut platform - Answers - flat, eroded bedrock by wave energy, shallow sand/sea
floor that we are able to walk on in the shallow ocean
notch - Answers - cave cut into sea cliff by waves
what does wave energy do to a coastal cliff over time? how? - Answers - erodes it;
crashing waves push air and water into tiny rock crevices, repeated buildup and release
of pressure can weaken and fracture the rock
Rivers and cliff erosion- sand to the berm? - Answers - River: sediment on a beach has
been moved for long distance by rivers or ocean currents to its present location;
providing sand to the berm
Cliff: particles may fall from the cliff above and accumulate at the shoreline
what can you say about the southern california sand supply? - Answers - LONGSHORE
DRIFT: movement of sediment, along the coast driven by wave action
mostly comes from cliff erosion
Net southward transport of material along CA coast exceeds 230,000 meters per year
, Rivers, cliff erosion
70% of supply of sand comes from cliff erosion
Longshore Drift occurs in 2 ways - Answers - Wave-driven movement of sand along the
exposed beach
Current driven movement of sand in the surf zone offshore
what are the principal sources of sand to the beach? - Answers - 1. erosion of cliffs
2. river run-off
what are the 3 ways the berm can be flooded? - Answers - 1. tsunamis
2. high/spring tides
3. great storm surges
Berm - Answers - accumulation of sediment that runs parallel to shore and marks the
normal limit of sand deposition by wave action
Summer season BERM - Answers - wave energy is LOW
long, low waves push sand up to shore
creates LARGE BERM (wide berm sandy area)
Winter season BERM - Answers - wave energy is HIGH
short, high waves that brigs sand below sea level (sand bar)
creates a ROCKY beach with a NARROW BERM
algae on berm in winter (bad)
longshore current - Answers - movement of water in surf zones
approach beach at an angle
Longshore drift - Answers - transport of sediment due to winds (which direct the waves)
parallel to coasts
movement of sand grains
what direction does the longshore current flow? - Answers - parallel to the shore
what direction does the longshore current go in Southern California? why? - Answers -
north to south (towards La Jolla)
waves approach at an angle, current flow parallel to the shore, pushes sand
perpendicular because of the wind from the NORTH the WESTERLIES
what are the 2 types of coasts? - Answers - 1. erosional
2. depositional
erosional coast - Answers - Coast eroded from wave energy
La Jolla (marine terrace), Santa Monica, Big Sur, Southern Australia
1. emergent coast (RISING)
AND ANSWERS
what are the parts of the coastal region? - Answers - 1. coast
2. offshore
3. beach
4. berm
5. wave-cut platform
6. notch
Coastal region - Answers - land adjacent to the beach and affected by the ocean
(marine layer)
coast - Answers - land extending inland as far as marine influence is seen
coastline - Answers - base of cliff, think of the literal line that connect the bottom of a
cliff to the sand berm
offshore - Answers - extends from breakers to edge of continental shelf
beach - Answers - shore + nearshore (area between coast & shore); very active
berm - Answers - dry area at the foot of the coastal cliff - > sand
- tsunami, high tide, storm surge (flood the berm)
wave-cut platform - Answers - flat, eroded bedrock by wave energy, shallow sand/sea
floor that we are able to walk on in the shallow ocean
notch - Answers - cave cut into sea cliff by waves
what does wave energy do to a coastal cliff over time? how? - Answers - erodes it;
crashing waves push air and water into tiny rock crevices, repeated buildup and release
of pressure can weaken and fracture the rock
Rivers and cliff erosion- sand to the berm? - Answers - River: sediment on a beach has
been moved for long distance by rivers or ocean currents to its present location;
providing sand to the berm
Cliff: particles may fall from the cliff above and accumulate at the shoreline
what can you say about the southern california sand supply? - Answers - LONGSHORE
DRIFT: movement of sediment, along the coast driven by wave action
mostly comes from cliff erosion
Net southward transport of material along CA coast exceeds 230,000 meters per year
, Rivers, cliff erosion
70% of supply of sand comes from cliff erosion
Longshore Drift occurs in 2 ways - Answers - Wave-driven movement of sand along the
exposed beach
Current driven movement of sand in the surf zone offshore
what are the principal sources of sand to the beach? - Answers - 1. erosion of cliffs
2. river run-off
what are the 3 ways the berm can be flooded? - Answers - 1. tsunamis
2. high/spring tides
3. great storm surges
Berm - Answers - accumulation of sediment that runs parallel to shore and marks the
normal limit of sand deposition by wave action
Summer season BERM - Answers - wave energy is LOW
long, low waves push sand up to shore
creates LARGE BERM (wide berm sandy area)
Winter season BERM - Answers - wave energy is HIGH
short, high waves that brigs sand below sea level (sand bar)
creates a ROCKY beach with a NARROW BERM
algae on berm in winter (bad)
longshore current - Answers - movement of water in surf zones
approach beach at an angle
Longshore drift - Answers - transport of sediment due to winds (which direct the waves)
parallel to coasts
movement of sand grains
what direction does the longshore current flow? - Answers - parallel to the shore
what direction does the longshore current go in Southern California? why? - Answers -
north to south (towards La Jolla)
waves approach at an angle, current flow parallel to the shore, pushes sand
perpendicular because of the wind from the NORTH the WESTERLIES
what are the 2 types of coasts? - Answers - 1. erosional
2. depositional
erosional coast - Answers - Coast eroded from wave energy
La Jolla (marine terrace), Santa Monica, Big Sur, Southern Australia
1. emergent coast (RISING)
