2026
seams - Answers -stitched joint resulting from sewing two or more pieces of fabric
-line of stitching joining edges in a single piece of fabric (ex:dart)
seam type choice depends on: - Answers -location of seam within garment
-end use
-design
-fit
-fabric
-care of garment
-current fashion trends
-cost
seam line - Answers stitched line of a seam
seam allowance - Answers or seam margin narrow width of fabric between seam line and cut edge of
fabric
width of seam allowance affects: - Answers -strength
-durability
-appearance
-comfort
-cost
seam allowance - Answers -wider seams can be let out
-too wide seams in crotch or underarms are uncomfortable
-1/2 in. or wider for high quality RTW
-1/8in reduces bulk and yields smooth flat edge (ex: collars and cuffs)
superimposed seams - Answers -created by superimposing or stacking piles with edges even
-sewing plies together near the edge
-majority of seams are superimposed
-plain seam, most common (side, waist, sleeve)
butterflied or busted (superimposed seams) - Answers -seam is pressed open
-reduces bulk by distributing seam allowance to each side of the seam line
advantages (superimposed seams) - Answers -inconspicuous
-nonbulky
-easy to alter
-inexpensive to produce
disadvantages (superimposed seams) - Answers -not especially strong
-greater tendency to grin
-seam starts to pull apart: sewing threads exposed
advantages (french seam) - Answers -prevents raveling
-stronger than plain seam in non stick fabrics
-adds elegance
-suitable for short, fairly straight seams
disadvantages (french seams) - Answers -difficult to alter
-costly
lapped seams - Answers -constructed by joining all thicknesses from the face side
uses for lapped seams - Answers -patch pockets
-decorative lapped seams
lapped seams - Answers -overlapping seam allowances of two or more piles
-piles extending in opposite directions
-often topstitched; looks more casual
-special purpose seams (ex: rain gear, waistline of underwear or sportswear)
lapped seams - Answers -less bulky;
-good for non raveling materials (ex: leather and vinyl)
flat-felled seams - Answers -most common type of lapped seam
-are strong and durable (ex:jeans, work clothing)
-prevents raveling, raw edges enclosed
-bulky and rigid in heavy fabric
, -difficult to alter
-only used to straight or fairly edges
flat (seam types) - Answers -joins fabrics along the edges, butting them together, or overlapping
slightly
-aka butt seam or exposed seam
-has a low profile stretch comfortable wear
-used in cut and sew and full fashioned knit garments (ex: underwear, foundation garments,
sweatshirts and children swear)
flat seams - Answers -often paired with high stretch fabrics
-no seam allowances (fabric savings)
-often made with 600 class stitch which uses lots of thread or zigzag or bottom cover (400 class)
-least bulky of all seams
flat seam disadvantages - Answers -cannot be let out
-no room for error; could separate and develop holes in not completely abutted
bound seam (hong kong seam) - Answers -made by using fabric binding strips to encase raw edges
-found only at edges (ex: necklines, armholes, waistlines and hems)
-produces a neat finish to edges
-prevents raveling
-covers raw edges to help comfort
-seam binding provides high quality finish
-can be used when inside appearance important
edge treatment or edge finishes - Answers -finish raw or cut edges of garment
-higher quality associated with finished edges however
-fashion trends may feature unfinished edge
-leather and leather like fabric may be too bulky if finished
edge treatments depend on - Answers -location and purpose of the edge
-fabric the garment is made from
-style and end use of the garment
-care of garment
-cost
edge treatments locations - Answers -on outside (necklines, waistlines, sleeveless armholes)
-on seam and hem allowance edges inside the garment
edge finishes major functions/uses - Answers -prevent raveling of woven fabrics
-prevent edges of light and medium weight knit fabrics from rolling or curling
-contribute to strength abrasion resistance and stability of edges
-improve wearers comfort
edge treatments finishes - Answers -edge finish stitchings (includes hems)
-unstitched finishes
-facings
-bindings
-bands
-plackets
edge finish stitchings (EF) - Answers -series of stitches that finish and edge (ex:jeans)
hems - Answers -any finish at bottom edge of a garment
folded hems - Answers raw edge is turned under and stitched to the garment
hem attachment - Answers topstitched hems are secure and serve as a decorative feature
straight garments - Answers medium to wide hem allowance
flared garments - Answers narrow hems; more flare means narrower hem
straight vs. flared hem - Answers -a hem of 1-1/2 in. or greater can easily be added to a straight
garment
-the hem on a flared garment must be narrow
weight for hems - Answers -garments made from heavy fabric need less hem allowance; fabric helps
garments hang nicely
-garments made from light weight fabric need wider hem allowance to hang properly
shirttail hems - Answers -narrow hem folded under twice and topstitched in place
-generally 1/4 inch wide, usually one single row of stitches; has curved edge
rolled hems - Answers -very narrow hem rolled up to enclose the raw edge of the hem