Name:
Address:
Date:
Appliance type: Vaillant Ecotec pro 24 kw combi boiler
Meter: U6
Fault find 2
At approximately 9:00 am I received a call from a customer stating that, when he
put on the central heating or the hot water, his Vaillant Ecotec pro 24 kw combi
boiler wasn’t heating the water properly. he was worried that something might
be wrong with the appliance. Instantly I started to diagnose the problem before I
got to the property as I knew that in most cases where the water isn't heating up
is due to the burner being blocked or damaged.
When I arrived at the property, I went to the boiler and saw that it was quite old.
I conducted a visual inspection before starting any work. This is important to
start off with, checking for interference or damage to the appliance that may
affect the efficiency of my work, like a loose bracket that could make the current
meter on the wall unstable. I started my visual inspection at the top of the meter
by making sure that the Emergency Control Valve (ECV) falls to the OFF position
and that there is a label indicating what position means the ECV is on or off.
Gradually I worked my way down the meter analysing that the
pipework/anaconda is in good condition (no paint or dents/holes), the brackets
holding the meter are secure and that the tamper seal has not been tampered
with and is sitting correctly on the regulator. When I finished my inspection and
was certain that I checked everything correctly, I moved on to the tightness test.
Prior to starting the tightness test I made sure that the U-gauge I was using was
in good working condition and that the water inside of it was level to zero-zero
millibar. I performed this tightness test to make sure that the installation that
was done before is safe. The first test that I performed on the meter was the let–
by test, to ensure that there is no gas that can pass through the valve when it is
turned off, so I isolated all appliances starting farthest from the meter. I removed
the screw from the test point and replaced it with the tube from the U-gauge. I
then put the ECV to the on position, to make pressure, so that the reading within
the U-gauge was at 10 mb (millibar) and then timed it to run for 1 minute. Once I
was fulfilled with my let-by test that proved no gas was passing through when
the ECV was in the off position I moved on to conducting my temperature
stabilisation. Temperature stabilisation is done to allow the water and gas in the
U-gauge to equalise in temperature so the reading from the tightness test will be
accurate.
With the tube still attached to the test point I made sure that the reading on the
U-gauge was back on its original position (zero-zero millibar). I Then turned the
ECV to the on position to allow the pressure to let the water rise to 20 mb,
subsequently timing it for 1 minute. When I was done with my temperature
stabilisation and content that my results were adequate, I moved on to the
tightness test. The tightness test is implemented to test the entire installation
(all pipework and appliances downstream of the meter) for gas escapes. Firstly, I
made sure that the U-gauge was back to the starting off point at zero-zero
Address:
Date:
Appliance type: Vaillant Ecotec pro 24 kw combi boiler
Meter: U6
Fault find 2
At approximately 9:00 am I received a call from a customer stating that, when he
put on the central heating or the hot water, his Vaillant Ecotec pro 24 kw combi
boiler wasn’t heating the water properly. he was worried that something might
be wrong with the appliance. Instantly I started to diagnose the problem before I
got to the property as I knew that in most cases where the water isn't heating up
is due to the burner being blocked or damaged.
When I arrived at the property, I went to the boiler and saw that it was quite old.
I conducted a visual inspection before starting any work. This is important to
start off with, checking for interference or damage to the appliance that may
affect the efficiency of my work, like a loose bracket that could make the current
meter on the wall unstable. I started my visual inspection at the top of the meter
by making sure that the Emergency Control Valve (ECV) falls to the OFF position
and that there is a label indicating what position means the ECV is on or off.
Gradually I worked my way down the meter analysing that the
pipework/anaconda is in good condition (no paint or dents/holes), the brackets
holding the meter are secure and that the tamper seal has not been tampered
with and is sitting correctly on the regulator. When I finished my inspection and
was certain that I checked everything correctly, I moved on to the tightness test.
Prior to starting the tightness test I made sure that the U-gauge I was using was
in good working condition and that the water inside of it was level to zero-zero
millibar. I performed this tightness test to make sure that the installation that
was done before is safe. The first test that I performed on the meter was the let–
by test, to ensure that there is no gas that can pass through the valve when it is
turned off, so I isolated all appliances starting farthest from the meter. I removed
the screw from the test point and replaced it with the tube from the U-gauge. I
then put the ECV to the on position, to make pressure, so that the reading within
the U-gauge was at 10 mb (millibar) and then timed it to run for 1 minute. Once I
was fulfilled with my let-by test that proved no gas was passing through when
the ECV was in the off position I moved on to conducting my temperature
stabilisation. Temperature stabilisation is done to allow the water and gas in the
U-gauge to equalise in temperature so the reading from the tightness test will be
accurate.
With the tube still attached to the test point I made sure that the reading on the
U-gauge was back on its original position (zero-zero millibar). I Then turned the
ECV to the on position to allow the pressure to let the water rise to 20 mb,
subsequently timing it for 1 minute. When I was done with my temperature
stabilisation and content that my results were adequate, I moved on to the
tightness test. The tightness test is implemented to test the entire installation
(all pipework and appliances downstream of the meter) for gas escapes. Firstly, I
made sure that the U-gauge was back to the starting off point at zero-zero
