, Contents
SEWING MACHINE HISTORY .......................................................................................................... 5
SEWING TECHNOLOGY .................................................................................................................... 7
Basic Components of Sewing Machine (Sewing Elements).............................................................. 7
Sewing Needles .................................................................................................................................. 7
Needle Systems ................................................................................................................................ 11
Needle Sizes ..................................................................................................................................... 11
Feed Mechanism .............................................................................................................................. 12
Machine Bed .................................................................................................................................... 15
INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES ............................................................................................... 17
Blind Stitch Machine ....................................................................................................................... 17
Button Holing Machine.................................................................................................................... 18
Button Attaching Machine ............................................................................................................... 18
Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine ................................................................................................ 19
Double Needle Lockstitch Machine................................................................................................. 19
Bartack Machine .............................................................................................................................. 20
Zig Zag Stitch Machine ................................................................................................................... 20
Feed Off The Arm ............................................................................................................................ 21
Kansai Special Machine ................................................................................................................... 21
Overlock Machine ............................................................................................................................ 21
Flat Lock Machine ........................................................................................................................... 22
Smocking Machine .......................................................................................................................... 23
Pocket Sewing Machine ................................................................................................................... 23
STITCH................................................................................................................................................ 25
Interlacing ........................................................................................................................................ 25
Interlooping ...................................................................................................................................... 25
Intralooping ...................................................................................................................................... 25
Classification.................................................................................................................................... 25
Terms & Definition .......................................................................................................................... 30
SEAM .................................................................................................................................................. 32
Seam Class 1 (Superimposed Seam)................................................................................................ 32
Seam Class 2 (Lapped Seam) .......................................................................................................... 32
Seam Class 3 (Bound Seam) ............................................................................................................ 33
Seam Class 4 (Flat Seam) ................................................................................................................ 33
Seam Class 5 (Decorative / Ornamental Seam) ............................................................................... 34
Seam Class 6 (Edge Finishing / Neatening Seam)........................................................................... 34
Seam Class 7 (Applied Seam).......................................................................................................... 35
Seam Class 8 (Single Ply Construction) .......................................................................................... 35
, Factors Affecting Seam Performance .............................................................................................. 35
Terms & Definition .......................................................................................................................... 36
SEWING THREAD ............................................................................................................................. 38
Substrate........................................................................................................................................... 39
Construction ..................................................................................................................................... 41
Finish................................................................................................................................................ 41
WORK AIDS ....................................................................................................................................... 43
Guide ................................................................................................................................................ 43
Compensating Foot .......................................................................................................................... 43
Specialized Presser Foot .................................................................................................................. 44
Stitching Jig ..................................................................................................................................... 47
Light ................................................................................................................................................. 48
Rack Guide....................................................................................................................................... 48
Folder ............................................................................................................................................... 48
Compressed Air ............................................................................................................................... 49
Thread Cutter ................................................................................................................................... 49
Latch Back Device ........................................................................................................................... 50
Slack Feeder ..................................................................................................................................... 50
Stacker.............................................................................................................................................. 50
Elastication ....................................................................................................................................... 50
SEWING PROBLEMS & REMEDIES ............................................................................................... 51
Problems of Stitch Formation .......................................................................................................... 51
Problems of Puckering ..................................................................................................................... 53
Problems of Seam Line .................................................................................................................... 55
ALTERNATIVE METHOD OF JOINING ......................................................................................... 57
Fusing............................................................................................................................................... 57
Welding and Adhesives ................................................................................................................... 57
Moulding .......................................................................................................................................... 59
EMBROIDERY ................................................................................................................................... 60
Digital Embroidery .......................................................................................................................... 61
Equipment for Embroidery .............................................................................................................. 62
Materials for Embroidery ................................................................................................................. 63
Stabilizer .......................................................................................................................................... 64
Embroidery Stitches ......................................................................................................................... 65
Applique........................................................................................................................................... 65
Special Effects ................................................................................................................................. 66
Embroidery Costing ......................................................................................................................... 67
Embroidery Quality Requirement .................................................................................................... 67
Faults of Embroidery ....................................................................................................................... 67
, PRESSING & FINISHING.................................................................................................................. 68
Basic Components ........................................................................................................................... 69
Hand Irons ........................................................................................................................................ 69
Under Pressing ................................................................................................................................. 70
Top Pressing..................................................................................................................................... 70
Other Pressing Process ..................................................................................................................... 71
Finishing .......................................................................................................................................... 72
FOLDING & PACKING ..................................................................................................................... 73
Folding ............................................................................................................................................. 73
Packaging ......................................................................................................................................... 75
APPAREL TESTING .......................................................................................................................... 80
Testing Standards ............................................................................................................................. 80
Test Request Form ........................................................................................................................... 80
Shrinkage Test ................................................................................................................................. 81
Button Pull Test ............................................................................................................................... 81
Color Fastness to Saliva ................................................................................................................... 82
INSPECTION & QUALITY CONTROL ........................................................................................... 85
Inspection ......................................................................................................................................... 85
Raw Material Inspection .................................................................................................................. 86
In Process Inspection ....................................................................................................................... 88
Final Inspection ................................................................................................................................ 90
Types of Sampling System .............................................................................................................. 91
Traffic Light System ........................................................................................................................ 92
Quality Controller ............................................................................................................................ 93
SEWING MACHINE HISTORY .......................................................................................................... 5
SEWING TECHNOLOGY .................................................................................................................... 7
Basic Components of Sewing Machine (Sewing Elements).............................................................. 7
Sewing Needles .................................................................................................................................. 7
Needle Systems ................................................................................................................................ 11
Needle Sizes ..................................................................................................................................... 11
Feed Mechanism .............................................................................................................................. 12
Machine Bed .................................................................................................................................... 15
INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES ............................................................................................... 17
Blind Stitch Machine ....................................................................................................................... 17
Button Holing Machine.................................................................................................................... 18
Button Attaching Machine ............................................................................................................... 18
Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine ................................................................................................ 19
Double Needle Lockstitch Machine................................................................................................. 19
Bartack Machine .............................................................................................................................. 20
Zig Zag Stitch Machine ................................................................................................................... 20
Feed Off The Arm ............................................................................................................................ 21
Kansai Special Machine ................................................................................................................... 21
Overlock Machine ............................................................................................................................ 21
Flat Lock Machine ........................................................................................................................... 22
Smocking Machine .......................................................................................................................... 23
Pocket Sewing Machine ................................................................................................................... 23
STITCH................................................................................................................................................ 25
Interlacing ........................................................................................................................................ 25
Interlooping ...................................................................................................................................... 25
Intralooping ...................................................................................................................................... 25
Classification.................................................................................................................................... 25
Terms & Definition .......................................................................................................................... 30
SEAM .................................................................................................................................................. 32
Seam Class 1 (Superimposed Seam)................................................................................................ 32
Seam Class 2 (Lapped Seam) .......................................................................................................... 32
Seam Class 3 (Bound Seam) ............................................................................................................ 33
Seam Class 4 (Flat Seam) ................................................................................................................ 33
Seam Class 5 (Decorative / Ornamental Seam) ............................................................................... 34
Seam Class 6 (Edge Finishing / Neatening Seam)........................................................................... 34
Seam Class 7 (Applied Seam).......................................................................................................... 35
Seam Class 8 (Single Ply Construction) .......................................................................................... 35
, Factors Affecting Seam Performance .............................................................................................. 35
Terms & Definition .......................................................................................................................... 36
SEWING THREAD ............................................................................................................................. 38
Substrate........................................................................................................................................... 39
Construction ..................................................................................................................................... 41
Finish................................................................................................................................................ 41
WORK AIDS ....................................................................................................................................... 43
Guide ................................................................................................................................................ 43
Compensating Foot .......................................................................................................................... 43
Specialized Presser Foot .................................................................................................................. 44
Stitching Jig ..................................................................................................................................... 47
Light ................................................................................................................................................. 48
Rack Guide....................................................................................................................................... 48
Folder ............................................................................................................................................... 48
Compressed Air ............................................................................................................................... 49
Thread Cutter ................................................................................................................................... 49
Latch Back Device ........................................................................................................................... 50
Slack Feeder ..................................................................................................................................... 50
Stacker.............................................................................................................................................. 50
Elastication ....................................................................................................................................... 50
SEWING PROBLEMS & REMEDIES ............................................................................................... 51
Problems of Stitch Formation .......................................................................................................... 51
Problems of Puckering ..................................................................................................................... 53
Problems of Seam Line .................................................................................................................... 55
ALTERNATIVE METHOD OF JOINING ......................................................................................... 57
Fusing............................................................................................................................................... 57
Welding and Adhesives ................................................................................................................... 57
Moulding .......................................................................................................................................... 59
EMBROIDERY ................................................................................................................................... 60
Digital Embroidery .......................................................................................................................... 61
Equipment for Embroidery .............................................................................................................. 62
Materials for Embroidery ................................................................................................................. 63
Stabilizer .......................................................................................................................................... 64
Embroidery Stitches ......................................................................................................................... 65
Applique........................................................................................................................................... 65
Special Effects ................................................................................................................................. 66
Embroidery Costing ......................................................................................................................... 67
Embroidery Quality Requirement .................................................................................................... 67
Faults of Embroidery ....................................................................................................................... 67
, PRESSING & FINISHING.................................................................................................................. 68
Basic Components ........................................................................................................................... 69
Hand Irons ........................................................................................................................................ 69
Under Pressing ................................................................................................................................. 70
Top Pressing..................................................................................................................................... 70
Other Pressing Process ..................................................................................................................... 71
Finishing .......................................................................................................................................... 72
FOLDING & PACKING ..................................................................................................................... 73
Folding ............................................................................................................................................. 73
Packaging ......................................................................................................................................... 75
APPAREL TESTING .......................................................................................................................... 80
Testing Standards ............................................................................................................................. 80
Test Request Form ........................................................................................................................... 80
Shrinkage Test ................................................................................................................................. 81
Button Pull Test ............................................................................................................................... 81
Color Fastness to Saliva ................................................................................................................... 82
INSPECTION & QUALITY CONTROL ........................................................................................... 85
Inspection ......................................................................................................................................... 85
Raw Material Inspection .................................................................................................................. 86
In Process Inspection ....................................................................................................................... 88
Final Inspection ................................................................................................................................ 90
Types of Sampling System .............................................................................................................. 91
Traffic Light System ........................................................................................................................ 92
Quality Controller ............................................................................................................................ 93
