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Summary Basic Textiles 1.1 reader 3

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This is a detailed summary of Basic Textiles 1.1, reader 3 in English. You can use this for the Fashion and Textile Technologies exam in the first year or for the retake.

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SLIDE 2
Character ist
icsofspunyarns.com
posed of Short and long Staple fibers

made from flax Staple fiberS
'
Cotton , or Wool



-
made from natural or man made -



filaments → (Ut into filament staple

'
Individual fiber Length may vary


hairy / fuzzy appearence feel
'
and


'
Un even humber of fiber in yarn Cross section , Along length of yarn
'

ranges from
'
öfter !Ööse Constructions to hara.fi ne twist yarn (dlp
ending on a -




Mount of tw ists inserted


'
Contain inneren t thicn and Thin areas
along yarn length
-
when on twisted :
falls apart ; Short Staple fibers can be pulled out


'
Lower luster than filament yarns

'
natural textura appearence and feel


innate hairy ness provi des good
yarn Cover
ing power


pi Hing depends fiber
-
on Content

, SLIDE }
Span Yarn

-




Short Staple Long Staple
-




Combined Carded Wochen Worsted
(Ring)




Plied Single Plied
Single



Air
Rotor
Ring Air Jet Other
Vortex




Single Plied Novelty



Yatn Classification → Staple or long Staple (Short Staple ifibers 2.5in
-
either Short -




Chens Shorters than 2.5inch es )
Long Staple tibers Longer
:
.




Novelty yarns have Special effects built into their
'
Structure

, SLIDE 4
Kern number
"
"
'
Measure of Linear density of yarn →
yarn humber


expressed weight I
'
as Certain
length of yarn per Standard as Certain
weight ot
yarn per Standard length

Span yarns numbered relative Ehichness
'
to choose yarn needed for
par ticular
fabric application
of




Yarn humber Is expression of a ratio → has no onits




Count / Yarn Size

yarn synonymaus with yarn humber




SHDES
Kern
numbering Systems

indirect nun bering system :




highernumb.US/-ineryarnslowernumberscoarseryarns
direct
bering system

nun :




hig her numbers → coarser
-




yarns
tower numbers →
Einer yarns
-




yatns here numbered english Cotton Count

on system

'
me Eric Count , wo rsted Count , woOlen rum -
> all indirectn.si


'
direct ns .
→ denier ,
tex ,
decitex

, SLIDE 6

Major / ndirect
Numbering Systems
( Ne)
English Cotton Count :
yarn number represents

( hanks) of Yam
humber of 840 Yard
Lengths that
weigh one pound


Example :
a Ne 24 yarn humber means that it taues 24

hanks of the yarn to po und
weigh one




2411 dlnotes (
Singles)
" "


Single yarn 24
-



a

48/2 ( 2- ply)
"


dlhotes p Lied yarn 48
- ' "
a s




Question i
What does 10/1 mean ?
↳ it is a ( 10
Singles) ; it nee as
" "


single yarn
10 hanks of the yarn to weigh 1 pound
(or 8,400 yards)




SLIDE 7
Major lndirect
Numbering Systems
Metric Count ( Nm) :
yarnnumberrepresentsnumb.es of meters

( or km)
yarn that 1 ( or
of weigh gram ng)

Example :
a Nm 30 yarn humber means that it

takeS 30 meters of yarn to weich one


gran or 30km of yarn to weigh one
Kg
Question :
What does NM 20 Mean ?
↳ it tolles 20 meters of yarn to
weigh one

( 20km for 1
kg)
gram




Europe / Asia
'
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Number of pages
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Written in
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Type
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