Answers Verified 100% Correct
Coarse texture - ANSWER largest diameter, greatest amount of melanin,
processing time and lift is affected
medium texture - ANSWER has a balance of melanin, typically no
problems
Fine texture - ANSWER smallest diameter, least amount of melanin, more
susceptible to darker drabber results, more prone to damage
Alkaline Wave - ANSWER AKA cold waves - ammonium thioglycolate
(thio and ammonia). ph - 9.0-9.6, no tension, solution causes hair to swell,
processes at RT
Acid Wave - ANSWER AKA heat waves- glycerol monothioglycolate. ph -
7.8-8.2. will require heat to speed processing
Endothermic - ANSWER required added heat source
Exothermic - ANSWER self heating
Croguiqnole - ANSWER Wrapping technique from ends to scalp, causes
tighter curls on ends. also referred to as "overlapping method"
Spiral - ANSWER hair is not perpendicular to rod - spiraled from top-
bottom of rod
On base placement - ANSWER hair is held 45* forward
1/2 off base placement - ANSWER hair is held 90* straight up
Off base placement - ANSWER hair is held 45* down
End paper techniques - ANSWER double flat, bookend, cushion wrap
, Lanthionization - ANSWER hydroxide relaxer removes 1 of the sulfer
atoms converting from a disulfide bond converting it into a lanthionine
bond, which is only 1 sulfur atom. can never be reformed
Sodium relaxers are not compatible with : - ANSWER Thio relaxers
Elasticity - ANSWER ability to stretch and return to original length without
breaking. wet - 50%, dry - 20%
Melanin - ANSWER color pigment. eumelanin, and pheomelanin
Hair layers - ANSWER medulla, cuticle, and cortex
Medulla - ANSWER center core of hair, does nothing
Cuticle - ANSWER 7-14 scale like layers, outer layer of hair
Cortex - ANSWER has hair pigment (melanin), 90% of hair weight,
elasticity, strength, all chemical changes
Skin Layers - ANSWER Epidermis, Dermis, Subcutaneous tissue
Epidermis - ANSWER Outer layer of skin, protective/water proof, contains
keratin and fats, stratum germinativum
Stratum Germinativum - ANSWER basal cell layer of epidermis that
produces melanin that protects from uv rays
Dermis - ANSWER "True skin" sensitive layer of connective tissue, 25x
thicker than the epidermis, 70% of layer is made of collagen protein,
elastin, and blood vessels
Sebaceous glands - ANSWER oil/sebum glands
Sudoriferous glands - ANSWER sweat glands