EOSC 210 - Midterm 2 (Chapters 9-15) -
2023
What is a shoreline? ANS: Where the water meets the land, its actual location fluctuates between the
low and high tides
What are tides? ANS: Fluctuations in sea level caused by Earth's rotation, the gravitational effects of the
Moon and Sun,
What is a storm surge? ANS: An abnormal rise of water generated by a storm, over and above the
predicted astronomical tides.
What is a seiche? ANS: A standing wave oscillating in a body of water.
What causes seiches? ANS: Strong winds and rapid changes in atmospheric pressure push water from
one end of a body of water to the other
What are EUSTATIC sea level changes? ANS: They are global sea level changes related to changes in the
volume of water in the ocean.
(accumulation/melting of glacier ice or tectonic processes such as changes in the shape of seafloor)
What are ISOSTATIC sea level changes? ANS: They are local sea level changes due to the loading or
unloading of the crust due to ice accumulation/melt of mountain growth/erosion
What are TECTONIC sea level changes? ANS: Sea level changes are local sea level changes due to
tectonic processes (Uplift or sinking of land)
,How are large displacement waves (tsunamis) generated? ANS: By landslides, earthquakes, calving of
glaciers and volcanic eruptions.
When do waves break? ANS: when...
-steepness is too high
-depth is too shallow
What is a wave base? ANS: The depth to which a passing wave causes (significant) water motion.
Wave base = 1/2 Wave length
What is the difference between plungling breakers and spilling breakers? ANS: Plunging breakers: more
steep, perfect for surfing, breaking point higher
Spilling breakers: less steep, lower breaking point
Explain refraction ANS: The change in direction of a wave passing from one medium to another is caused
by its change in speed.
For example, waves travel faster in deep water than in shallow
What is swash and backwash? ANS: Swash: is when a wave washes up onto the shoreline
Backwash: is when the water from a wave retreats back into the sea.
Defining characteristic of Longshore current ANS: Can transport large volumes of sediment along the
coast
, How are depositional features formed? ANS: They are formed by longshore drift (transportation of
sediment by longshore current)
Explain the wave energy difference at headland vs at bay ANS: Wave energy is concentrated at
headlands and wave energy is dispersed in the bay.
Where do waves converge? ANS: Waves converge at headlands, energy is focused and erosion occurs.
Where do waves diverge? ANS: Waves diverge in bays, and deposition occurs
What are the five generic approches to coastal management? ANS: 1. Do nothing
2. Retreat
3. Hold the line
4. Advance
5. Limited Intervention
What are the two soft solutions for coastal engineering? ANS: -Beach Noursishment
-Dredging
What are the five hard solutions for coastal engineering? ANS: -Jetties
-Groynes (groins)
-Breakwaters
-Seawalls
-Revetments
2023
What is a shoreline? ANS: Where the water meets the land, its actual location fluctuates between the
low and high tides
What are tides? ANS: Fluctuations in sea level caused by Earth's rotation, the gravitational effects of the
Moon and Sun,
What is a storm surge? ANS: An abnormal rise of water generated by a storm, over and above the
predicted astronomical tides.
What is a seiche? ANS: A standing wave oscillating in a body of water.
What causes seiches? ANS: Strong winds and rapid changes in atmospheric pressure push water from
one end of a body of water to the other
What are EUSTATIC sea level changes? ANS: They are global sea level changes related to changes in the
volume of water in the ocean.
(accumulation/melting of glacier ice or tectonic processes such as changes in the shape of seafloor)
What are ISOSTATIC sea level changes? ANS: They are local sea level changes due to the loading or
unloading of the crust due to ice accumulation/melt of mountain growth/erosion
What are TECTONIC sea level changes? ANS: Sea level changes are local sea level changes due to
tectonic processes (Uplift or sinking of land)
,How are large displacement waves (tsunamis) generated? ANS: By landslides, earthquakes, calving of
glaciers and volcanic eruptions.
When do waves break? ANS: when...
-steepness is too high
-depth is too shallow
What is a wave base? ANS: The depth to which a passing wave causes (significant) water motion.
Wave base = 1/2 Wave length
What is the difference between plungling breakers and spilling breakers? ANS: Plunging breakers: more
steep, perfect for surfing, breaking point higher
Spilling breakers: less steep, lower breaking point
Explain refraction ANS: The change in direction of a wave passing from one medium to another is caused
by its change in speed.
For example, waves travel faster in deep water than in shallow
What is swash and backwash? ANS: Swash: is when a wave washes up onto the shoreline
Backwash: is when the water from a wave retreats back into the sea.
Defining characteristic of Longshore current ANS: Can transport large volumes of sediment along the
coast
, How are depositional features formed? ANS: They are formed by longshore drift (transportation of
sediment by longshore current)
Explain the wave energy difference at headland vs at bay ANS: Wave energy is concentrated at
headlands and wave energy is dispersed in the bay.
Where do waves converge? ANS: Waves converge at headlands, energy is focused and erosion occurs.
Where do waves diverge? ANS: Waves diverge in bays, and deposition occurs
What are the five generic approches to coastal management? ANS: 1. Do nothing
2. Retreat
3. Hold the line
4. Advance
5. Limited Intervention
What are the two soft solutions for coastal engineering? ANS: -Beach Noursishment
-Dredging
What are the five hard solutions for coastal engineering? ANS: -Jetties
-Groynes (groins)
-Breakwaters
-Seawalls
-Revetments
