ocean 100 sacramentogrilo exam 3 |145
Questions with Answers
what are the parts of the coastal region? - -1. coast
2. offshore
3. beach
4. berm
5. wave-cut platform
6. notch
-Coastal region - -land adjacent to the beach and affected by the ocean (marine layer)
-coast - -land extending inland as far as marine influence is seen
-coastline - -base of cliff, think of the literal line that connect the bottom of a cliff to the
sand berm
-offshore - -extends from breakers to edge of continental shelf
-beach - -shore + nearshore (area between coast & shore); very active
-berm - -dry area at the foot of the coastal cliff - > sand
- tsunami, high tide, storm surge (flood the berm)
-wave-cut platform - -flat, eroded bedrock by wave energy, shallow sand/sea floor that we
are able to walk on in the shallow ocean
-notch - -cave cut into sea cliff by waves
-what does wave energy do to a coastal cliff over time? how? - -erodes it; crashing waves
push air and water into tiny rock crevices, repeated buildup and release of pressure can
weaken and fracture the rock
-Rivers and cliff erosion- sand to the berm? - -River: sediment on a beach has been moved
for long distance by rivers or ocean currents to its present location; providing sand to the
berm
Cliff: particles may fall from the cliff above and accumulate at the shoreline
-what can you say about the southern california sand supply? - -LONGSHORE DRIFT:
movement of sediment, along the coast driven by wave action
mostly comes from cliff erosion
Net southward transport of material along CA coast exceeds 230,000 meters per year
Rivers, cliff erosion
, 70% of supply of sand comes from cliff erosion
-Longshore Drift occurs in 2 ways - -Wave-driven movement of sand along the exposed
beach
Current driven movement of sand in the surf zone offshore
-what are the principal sources of sand to the beach? - -1. erosion of cliffs
2. river run-off
-what are the 3 ways the berm can be flooded? - -1. tsunamis
2. high/spring tides
3. great storm surges
-Berm - -accumulation of sediment that runs parallel to shore and marks the normal limit
of sand deposition by wave action
-Summer season BERM - -wave energy is LOW
long, low waves push sand up to shore
creates LARGE BERM (wide berm sandy area)
-Winter season BERM - -wave energy is HIGH
short, high waves that brigs sand below sea level (sand bar)
creates a ROCKY beach with a NARROW BERM
algae on berm in winter (bad)
-longshore current - -movement of water in surf zones
approach beach at an angle
-Longshore drift - -transport of sediment due to winds (which direct the waves) parallel to
coasts
movement of sand grains
-what direction does the longshore current flow? - -parallel to the shore
-what direction does the longshore current go in Southern California? why? - -north to
south (towards La Jolla)
waves approach at an angle, current flow parallel to the shore, pushes sand perpendicular
because of the wind from the NORTH the WESTERLIES
-what are the 2 types of coasts? - -1. erosional
2. depositional
-erosional coast - -Coast eroded from wave energy
La Jolla (marine terrace), Santa Monica, Big Sur, Southern Australia
1. emergent coast (RISING)
2. tectonic uplift (ACTIVE MARGINS)
Questions with Answers
what are the parts of the coastal region? - -1. coast
2. offshore
3. beach
4. berm
5. wave-cut platform
6. notch
-Coastal region - -land adjacent to the beach and affected by the ocean (marine layer)
-coast - -land extending inland as far as marine influence is seen
-coastline - -base of cliff, think of the literal line that connect the bottom of a cliff to the
sand berm
-offshore - -extends from breakers to edge of continental shelf
-beach - -shore + nearshore (area between coast & shore); very active
-berm - -dry area at the foot of the coastal cliff - > sand
- tsunami, high tide, storm surge (flood the berm)
-wave-cut platform - -flat, eroded bedrock by wave energy, shallow sand/sea floor that we
are able to walk on in the shallow ocean
-notch - -cave cut into sea cliff by waves
-what does wave energy do to a coastal cliff over time? how? - -erodes it; crashing waves
push air and water into tiny rock crevices, repeated buildup and release of pressure can
weaken and fracture the rock
-Rivers and cliff erosion- sand to the berm? - -River: sediment on a beach has been moved
for long distance by rivers or ocean currents to its present location; providing sand to the
berm
Cliff: particles may fall from the cliff above and accumulate at the shoreline
-what can you say about the southern california sand supply? - -LONGSHORE DRIFT:
movement of sediment, along the coast driven by wave action
mostly comes from cliff erosion
Net southward transport of material along CA coast exceeds 230,000 meters per year
Rivers, cliff erosion
, 70% of supply of sand comes from cliff erosion
-Longshore Drift occurs in 2 ways - -Wave-driven movement of sand along the exposed
beach
Current driven movement of sand in the surf zone offshore
-what are the principal sources of sand to the beach? - -1. erosion of cliffs
2. river run-off
-what are the 3 ways the berm can be flooded? - -1. tsunamis
2. high/spring tides
3. great storm surges
-Berm - -accumulation of sediment that runs parallel to shore and marks the normal limit
of sand deposition by wave action
-Summer season BERM - -wave energy is LOW
long, low waves push sand up to shore
creates LARGE BERM (wide berm sandy area)
-Winter season BERM - -wave energy is HIGH
short, high waves that brigs sand below sea level (sand bar)
creates a ROCKY beach with a NARROW BERM
algae on berm in winter (bad)
-longshore current - -movement of water in surf zones
approach beach at an angle
-Longshore drift - -transport of sediment due to winds (which direct the waves) parallel to
coasts
movement of sand grains
-what direction does the longshore current flow? - -parallel to the shore
-what direction does the longshore current go in Southern California? why? - -north to
south (towards La Jolla)
waves approach at an angle, current flow parallel to the shore, pushes sand perpendicular
because of the wind from the NORTH the WESTERLIES
-what are the 2 types of coasts? - -1. erosional
2. depositional
-erosional coast - -Coast eroded from wave energy
La Jolla (marine terrace), Santa Monica, Big Sur, Southern Australia
1. emergent coast (RISING)
2. tectonic uplift (ACTIVE MARGINS)
